Swimming the Gower

The Gower Peninsula offers diverse and stunning swimming spots, says local Dawn Thomas

The Gower Peninsula. © Hawlfraint y Goron / © Crown copyright (2022) Cymru Wales.

From the Loughor estuary in the north to Swansea Bay in the south, Gower, or the Gower peninsula is a rugged and varied stretch of land extending into the Bristol channel just to the west of Swansea City in South Wales. With its 39 miles of coastline, Gower boasts more than 30 bays and beaches. From barely visited secluded bays that require a determined walk along stunning cliffs, to beaches accessed straight from the car, Gower has a swim spot for everyone.

The contrast between the north and the south coast of Gower is staggering. The rocky headlands and bays of south Gower provide stunning cliffs and safe bays to swim in, whereas the estuarine saltmarsh and mudflats of north Gower are flush and plaintive with sheltered, fast flowing water. The stunningly dramatic south Gower coast is formed by the alternating layers of folded rock, of soft shales, limestone and old red sandstone. This rock formation has created a range of large and small enclosed bays, surrounded by rocky limestone headlands. The bays found on the south and west coasts of the peninsula face many different directions, which means that Gower gives you the choice of the best beaches to swim depending on the weather conditions. Rugged headlands at Port Eynon point and Oxwich point provide shelter from the strongest south westerly winds, whereas the towering hill of Rhossili Downs stops the wind from the east. 

Most of the bays are perfect for short dips at any time of the year and there are also great locations for experienced outdoor swimmers who want a swimming adventure or long training swims. The wide bays of Rhossili, Oxwich and Port Eynon Bay provide an incredible length of coastline for long distance swims. The towering cliffs enclosing Mewslade Bay and Fall Bay are, in contrast, a place for adventurous exploration of sea caves and bays inaccessible from the coast. 

Far enough away from sources of water pollution the water quality around Gower is excellent. Being part of the Bristol channel however, and being Wales, we do get our share of rainfall making the sea visibility not brilliant. But that does mean that when there is a dry, still spell the clear blue seas are even more special. As well as the dramatic physical landscape the wildlife of Gower has led to it being named the first area of outstanding natural beauty (AONB). The southwest coastal path circumnavigates the entire peninsula and allows access to the whole coastline. This means that if you are up for a challenge, you could walk the whole way around Gower dipping and swimming as you go along for a fully immersive Gower experience.

Here are five diverse swims to get you started.

Langland Bay. © Hawlfraint y Goron / © Crown copyright (2022) Cymru Wales

1. Swim-Run (or Walk): Four Bays

Combining Caswell Bay, Langland Bay, Rotherslade Bay and Limeslade Bay swims makes a stunning swim run/walk.

Level of difficulty: More difficult access – may require a walk to the site or uneven ground. Entry and exit point may be challenging – rocky ground, trip hazards and underwater obstacles, big plunging breakers with a strong undertow. Limited exit points – you may have to commit to a distance before you can exit. Swimming conditions challenging – waves always present, may have strong currents.

Level of experience needed: Competent long-distance swimmer plus off-road runner or walker.

Directions:

Swim 1: 500m (1.5km) Caswell Bay west end to Caswell Bay east end. (Repeat for 1.5km swim)

Run/walk 1: 2.9km. Caswell Beach to Langland Beach. Run up the beach and take the coastal path to the right behind the café up the cliff. Follow the cliff path until you head down onto Langland beach.

Swim 2: 500m (1.5km) Langland Bay to Rotherslade Bay. (Repeat for 1.5km swim)

Run/walk 2: 2km. Rotherslade Beach to Limeslade Beach. Exit Rotherslade beach up the steps and take the coastal path to the right along the cliff to Limeslade beach.

Swim 3: 100m. Enter Limeslade Bay for a short dip across the bay.

Run/walk 3: 4.7km. Limeslade Bay to Caswell Bay. Retrace your steps following the coastal path all the way back to Caswell.

Total run/walk distance: 9.6km with 264m ascent.

You can get the bus back to Caswell from Oystermouth Castle in Mumbles 2A and 3A. Check the bus times first.

Safety: Timing is key. You need to swim at Caswell Bay at low tide, Langland 2 hours after low tide and Limeslade at mid tide. This is achievable when walking but you will have to factor in changing time if you are getting dressed between each swim. The paths are nearly all fully paved with steps up from all the beaches.

Pobbles Bay. © Hawlfraint y Goron / © Crown copyright (2022) Cymru Wales.

2. Family dip: Pobbles Bay 

Good for a swimble when there are no waves. There are some nice deep sand pools for wallowing especially when warmed by the hot sun.

Level of difficulty: Easy.

Level of experience needed: Beginners or non-swimmers – you can keep in your depth.

Access: You can enter the sea at any location along the bay avoiding the river entrance towards Three Cliffs Bay.

Safety: The bay is safe at low tide when the waves are not too large. Avoid straying into the mouth of the river and Three Cliffs Bay. 

Entry and Exit: Enter at the most easterly end beside the cliff. The ground is sandy underfoot which can be very soft. Swim westerly towards the three cliffs of Three Cliffs Bay. Exit or turn when you get in line with the first of the three cliffs, the one with the archway. For a longer swim, you can do laps of the bay, which is 250m wide at low tide.

3. Adventure Swim: Pwll Du to Caswell Bay via Brandy Cove

This is an amazing piece of coastline to explore from the sea. Don’t forget to stop and look at the view.

Level of difficulty: More difficult access – may require a walk to the site or uneven ground. Entry and exit point may be challenging – rocky ground, trip hazards and underwater obstacles, big plunging breakers with a strong undertow. Limited exit points – you may have to commit to a distance before you can exit. Swimming conditions challenging – waves always present, may have strong currents.

Level of experience needed: Competent swimmer in deep water and capable of swimming without support for 1km. Limited locations to abort on route.

Access: From Caswell car park SA3 3BR, cross Caswell Bay to the far western end, in front of the large boulders. Take the coastal path up some uneven steep steps around the headland. The coast path is steep in places and uneven underfoot. Pass Brandy Cove and follow the path to Pwll Du Bay. The climb down the beach requires a bit of clambering. Take the opportunity of this walk to look at the coastline for features to spot during your swim that you can use to gauge your progress. Also look for any swell or obstacles.

Safety:  Stay within a few hundred metres of the coastline and don’t go too far out of the protection of Pwll Du head. The only exit point once you have left Pwll Du Bay is Brandy Cove, a 1km swim. Exit is very difficult besides this and the entrance and exit point, as the coastline is very rocky and the cliff path is inaccessible from the shore. Be aware of surfers at Caswell Bay as the surf may have changed from when you left. If possible, have some land or sea cover. Any kayaking or SUP support can launch from Caswell Bay and meet you at Pwll Du Bay. Leave extra layers and a towel in your car.

Equipment: Take a tow float in which can carry all you are wearing. You can wear off-road shoes which fit in your tow float and are sturdy enough to walk the coastal path safely or wear swimming or swim run shoes with a solid sole.

Entry: Enter at Pwll Du beach. A rocky storm beach which has sand exposed at low tide. To avoid entering from the steep storm beach, swim at low tide. Enter at the east end of the bay.

Exit: West end of Caswell beach (Radcliffe), a sandy bay between two rocky headlands, if you want a slightly shorter swim, or opposite the river outflow on the main Caswell Bay for a longer swim and shorter walk to the car. You will have to walk at least 500m from the shore to the car park or longer if exiting at low tide. Take this into account when planning your clothes. If using a large enough tow float, you may want to dry and change on the beach and walk back to the car dry, if the air temperature is cold.

Early exit points: The only early exit is at Brandy Cove 1km from the start. You can exit and walk back to Caswell on the coast path. All the rest of the coastline is inaccessible from the sea due to jagged rocks and a steep cliff between the sea and the coastal path. Be sure when you commit to swim from bay to bay. If in doubt just explore a short distance along the coast and back to your starting point.

Swim distance: Pwll Du Bay to Brandy Cove: 1km

When to swim: Best done on a warm day when the sea is flat, and the wind is calm or a westerly, south westerly, with no swell. Aim for low tide or slack tide, an hour either side of low tide. Avoid swimming at high tide and when there is large surf.

Three Cliffs Bay to Oxwich. © Hawlfraint y Goron / © Crown copyright (2022) Cymru Wales

4. Training swim: Oxwich Bay

Oxwich Bay is a perfect location for longer training swims. Currents are weak but tend to flow south easterly making the swim to Three Cliffs Bay easier than the other way.

Level of difficulty: More difficult access – may require a walk to the site or uneven ground. Entry and exit point may be challenging – rocky ground, trip hazards and underwater obstacles, big plunging breakers with a strong undertow. Limited exit points – you may have to commit to a distance before you can exit. Swimming conditions challenging – waves always present, may have strong currents.

Level of experience needed: Competent long-distance swimmer. However, there are easy exit points at all locations along the route if you stay parallel to the beach and near to the shore.

Access: Access is straight from the car park onto the beach.

Safety: When the tide is out, if you swim across the bay the sea depth is still shallow making it a safe long swim.  Stay away from the shore when passing the river mouth of Nicholaston Pill at the end of Oxwich Bay. This is not usually a rip tide there but watch during the start of an ebbing tide. If swimming across the bay to Three Cliffs Bay stop before you get to the river mouth at Three Cliffs Bay due to rip tides. Beyond this are dangerous rip tides. In the summer the lifeguards red and yellow flags will show you where it is safe to exit. See chapter 2 for more details on rip tides.

Entry: Enter at any location off the beach east of the boat lane, the yellow buoys opposite the slipway.

Exit: For a 1.5km lap exit at the end of the sand dunes before the river mouth.

Early exit points: All locations along the beach are accessible as escape routes.

Swim distance: You can do laps of 1.5km from the boat lane to the river or the end of the sand dunes.

For a longer swim you can swim from Oxwich Bay all the way to Three Cliffs Bay 3.5km. Depending on the state of the tide and if you swim directly across the bay or hug the coastline, you can make the swim longer or shorter. You can either walk back along the sandy beach or swim back for a longer 7km swim.

5. Wildlife swim: Port Enyon Bay bioluminescence

Nothing really prepares you for the ethereal experience of swimming in bioluminescence. The appearance of this glowing plankton is difficult to predict. Bioluminescence thrives in calm waters and calm winds which allow for an unmixed, stratified water column. Therefore, they need sustained warm, calm weather in the summer for it to appear. This tends to be after a good few days of high temperatures and no wind, more likely in July but it has been seen as late as November if air temperature remains high. There are some Facebook pages which watch out for the presence of bioluminescence and report any sightings. Port Eynon is great for this natural wonder due to the lack of light pollution and easy, safe access in the dark. It also tends to be good at Caswell Bay, but this beach is much busier and can be ruined by spectators shining torches on the shoreline.

Level of difficulty: Easy.

Level of experience needed: Beginners or non-swimmers – you can keep in your depth.

Access: You need to arrive at the darkest part of the night 2 – 4am is probably the best time in the summer, but you can spot it earlier if it is a new moon. Turn off any torches you have to get your eyes used to the light for 10 mins. Head to the shore, taking care where you step. Look for the blue light or sparkling in the crashing waves. Sometimes the bioluminescence is better further out so don’t give up if you don’t see it at the shoreline. Once out in the water agitate the water to see the effect. Swimming will create a wake of blue or a sparking effect in the water depending on how strong the plankton is glowing. Blow underwater and you may see an amazing underwater firework effect. Keep moving as the algae will “run out” in one spot.

Safety: Take care walking to the shore if the tide is out due to the steep steps created by the submerged forest and slippery clay. You don’t need to go far out so stay within sight of the shore.

Entry and exit: Enter anywhere east of the boat lane trying to avoid any obstacles.

When to swim: Conditions need to be right for the bioluminescence to appear, but if you have a choice aim to go when high tide and a new moon coincide with 2 – 3am, after a week of warm calm weather.

 

  • Swim Gower: A Swim Guide to the Coastal Waters of Gower by Dawn Thomas is available now.
Dawn Thomas