Let’s Archipelago

For the past 20 years, the Stockholm Archipelago has been the original home of Ötillö Swimrun (‘ötillö’ meaning ‘island to island’), an endurance event, where competitors run and swim 75km in a single continuous route between the islands. Inspired by this A to B concept but looking for something a little more relaxed, we joined a group of swimmers from all over the world for what might have been the very first ‘Slow Ötillö’. 

Spread over a few days in late August 2024, we planned to swim between the Archipelago’s most beautiful islands and immerse ourselves in forest trails. We would transport our equipment in large tow-floats called RuckRafts, sleep on the islands, enjoy fine Scandi food, and, of course, finish each day with authentic Swedish sauna. Are you tempted?

The adventure began at Strömkajen, Stockholm’s ferry terminal, where, along with 30 other swimmers, we boarded one of the many boats connecting the islands. As we set sail, all trace of the capital soon disappeared. The shoreline became much more rugged, with clapboard cabins poking out between the trees, all painted the same distinctive red, while I found myself piecing together imaginary swim routes, searching for entry points and cliff jumping possibilities.

Our first stop was the island of Gällnö, on the edge of what’s known as ‘the middle archipelago’. After a short walk through the meadows, we reached our hostel for the night – a collection of red cabins dotted around the wood, with a hand pump for water and long-drop composting toilets. 

Keen to get started, the most impatient members of our group headed down to the bay for our first dip in the brackish waters. Refreshed, we strolled over to the beachside cafe to join the others. As we sat under the apple trees and enjoyed Toast Skagen, I chatted to Joachim Wolff and Inger Åberg from WolffWear who organised the trip. Inger told me this was the first time anyone had done a trip like this. ‘I was delighted to find 30 guys and gals crazy enough to do it!’

The next day started with a 5km walk through the woods before we reached the start of our first big swim. It was early autumn in Sweden, and with water temperatures around 16 degrees and at least a couple of hours in the water to look forward to, most of us donned wetsuits. There was a small safety boat and a couple of paddleboards, but as we waded out into the water and took our first strokes, this felt like a step into the unknown.

The joys of archipelago swimming soon began to reveal themselves. The green-tinged, brackish water felt soft to touch. As we swam, there was always something to sight on – a small rocky islet, the occasional flagpole on shore. As a large group, there was a certain amount of regrouping required, but this turned out to provide perfect opportunities to look around at the shimmering water and verdant islands in every direction.

While there are no tides or ocean currents in the Archipelago, we could, at times, feel some cross pull, such as when crossing a particularly wide strait, but we regrouped in the calm waters of a large bay before making landfall on the island of Svartsö.

Our guide, Mats Vidinger, had created a route across Svartsö which made the most of established trails through the forest, hidden paths and freshwater lakes which are known as swamps. Unlike most islands, Svartsö has a real community with its own school and library – although the permanent population is only around 80. 

We stayed that night in a more modern hostel with ensuite rooms. Jetty jumps were followed by a quick dash to a sauna perched above the bay with glorious views across the sea. We ate that night at Bistro Sågen, a restaurant in an atmospheric old saw mill which served locally reared pork amongst all sorts of other delights.

Mats’ swim route avoided the major ferry routes, but on Day Three, we swam from Svartsö to the island of Kålgårdsön, which involved keeping an eye out for private craft. As a big orange-coloured pod, we were definitely visible, but it still made for a fast, nervy swim. The reward came when we reached what felt like a natural canal of still water which gave us the perfect excuse to indulge in some head-up breaststroke for half a mile or so. 

Back on the trail, our next leg took us through a nature reserve and along a stretch of sandy beach, where we soon stripped off, unable to resist an extra swim. All part of the trip’s ethos!

Mats’ swim route avoided the major ferry routes, but on Day Three, we swam from Svartsö to the island of Kålgårdsön, which involved keeping an eye out for private craft. As a big orange-coloured pod, we were definitely visible, but it still made for a fast, nervy swim.

Our final swim of the day took us to Finnhamn, right on the edge of ‘the outer archipelago’. After the obligatory sauna – and for some, yoga on the beach – we headed down to Finnhamn Cafe & Krog, where we sat on the rooftop bar and watched the sun going down.

With the trip fast approaching the end, our last stop was the more popular island of Grinda – half nature reserve, half health resort – where we explored the forest trails and watched sea eagles swooping along the shore. We spent our final night at the Grinda Wärdshus, an imposing arts nouveau-style hotel, complete with floating sauna. With a final evening swim, as the sun began to set, we looked back on an extraordinary trip, already making plans for next time.

More Information

• When to go? Late June to mid August is peak summer season. Late August to mid September will be quieter and with less boat traffic! 
• Where to stay? The large islands have a range of accommodation options, but most of the smaller ones usually just have a hostel and a campsite. Another option is Allemansrätten – the Swedish right to public access, which means you can pitch your tent, walk or swim just about anywhere you like. 
• Check out WolffWear. 
• Find out more about RuckRafts. 
• Read the full Guide to the Archipelago.

Follow Richard on Instagram: @richardnelsson