In search of adventure, Rachel Gee swaps the stormy Western Isles for Portugal’s surf coast. Here she picks her five favourite swim spots from an unforgettable summer in the sun.
Your early 30s can be a challenge. Timelines blur as everyone competes to have it all figured out. Having spent most of my adult life travelling for work, not quite following the crowd, the COVID-19 lockdowns halted the more adventurous side of my career and left me feeling stuck. In search of newness and adventure, I decided to pack my bags and take an impromptu sabbatical at the age of 32.
Located in Ericeira, a popular surf town where I based myself for the next three months, Praia dos Pescadores (‘Fishermen’s Beach’) is a tranquil spot on the wild Atlantic coast. Things tend to liven up in the afternoon, so if you’re looking for solitude, I suggest you head here at sunrise or sunset.
Praia dos Pescadores turned out to be a place of strange coincidences and surprising connections. I was introduced to this place by another Lancashire lass who moved to Portugal just before me, someone I was bound to meet. Not only do we share a love of trail running and outdoor swimming but we grew up just a stone’s throw away from each other in the not-so-sunny Trough of Bowland.
Praia dos Pescadores is just a short walk away from the town centre where you can grab a well-deserved coffee and snack, or as my Scottish friends like to call them, wee ‘shivery pieces’. I’d recommend Magic Quiver for fresh coffee.
For those looking to base themselves around here, close enough to the sea but set back from the hustle and bustle, I’d recommend Santo Isidoro. You’ll need a car or bike, but you’ll also discover a health-conscious, outdoorsy community and some amazing organic food at Vizinha.
While I’ve spent many days exploring beaches in the Algarve, the less well-known spots off the West Coast feel more familiar to me. Much like the wild waters around my beloved Isle of Gigha in the Hebrides, Portugal’s western waters can be rough and unpredictable, forcing you to be present.
Praia da Almagreira is my personal favourite on this list. Home to imposing red cliffs, when the sun hits the sandstone at sunset, I was reminded of a small coastal version of Monument Valley in Arizona.
We drove here in a 4×4 – you’ll need one to reach the best camping spots – and spent a night under the stars. Situated close to the popular surf place of Baleal, it’s an off-grid option for those looking to avoid the crowds. I won’t give away my specific spot; you’ll be able to find one of your own somewhere along this stunning beach. Its length and towering cliffs make it a quiet retreat in the mornings and ideal for those brave enough to skinny dip.
A word of caution: there are some scattered rocks, so you might want to opt for booties here.
Located within reach of Lisbon, Praia de Santa Cruz is a pretty and less commercial beach than others in this area. While there are some amenities, the beach feels secluded, even in high season. We kept returning here for sunset swims and picnics. While a couple of my friends, both keen surfers, headed out on their boards, I opted for my swimsuit and the whitewash.
When bathing in the Portuguese heat, it’s easy to forget this is the Atlantic Ocean. For this reason, I would suggest packing a changing robe and layers, just as you would in the UK. The beach is supervised, with flags to signal whether the water is ‘safe’. I also looked at live beach cameras and websites to check on the best times to swim. Surfline is a handy guide for this.
The westernmost point of mainland Europe, Cabo da Roca is a beautiful place in the municipality of Sintra, famous for its all-powerful waves. I put my breathwork skills to use here over the summer and led group meditation hikes and dips for a yoga and surf retreat.
There can be strong swells here at times, so I’d only recommend Cabo da Roca to experienced swimmers who can read the currents. As long as you stay close to the shore, it’s always a great spot to dip.
To reach the beach, you’ll need good footwear as there are some vertical slopes. There’s a rope in places to help with the scramble down, but depending on the weather, some areas can be slippery underfoot. I opted for trail-running trainers.
The beach here isn’t a destination for the bashful – you’ll see a lot of nudist swimmers – so while good footwear is a must, you can forget about trunks or a cossie.
At times, you can feel the influence of Instagram. In recent years, Cabo da Roca has become a must-see tourist destination, so it’s probably best to save it for the low season or head there at off-peak times. AllTrails suggests the following short hiking route to reach the location.
Since childhood holidays in the Western Isles, I’ve always felt myself drawn to the sea. There is something about a ferocious coast that makes you feel strong, but most of all, alive. That’s what my Portuguese summer was all about. But Foz do Lizandro, perhaps my most visited spot, just south of Ericeria, offers both sea and river swims. A local favourite, Foz do Lizandro is home to a sweeping sandy beach and the Rio Lizandro, where I braved my first solo sunset swim.
There are amenities here, but unlike the other beaches on this list, Foz do Lizandro doesn’t feel like a tourist destination. You’ll find a couple of nice cafes and a beachside restaurant, Indigo, which is famous for its sunset views.
For those looking to work up a sweat before their swim, Lisbon Climbing offers bouldering tours on the nearby rock formations. I opted for a barefoot climb before cooling down in the sea.
Rachel Gee grew up in Lancashire and spent her summers exploring the wild waters of the Western Isles. Her love of the outdoors led her to pursue a career as a travel writer and content producer before shifting towards international development and climate action. She has written for and collaborated with a range of publications. Follow her on Instagram at @rachelemilygee